Instructions

ENDURO CHAINBREAKER

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS (PLEASE READ CAREFULLY)

AS A CHAINBREAKER
Extend operating bolts until push pin is inside large outer bolt. Place chain in Chain Breaker body and clamp large outer bolt over link pin to be removed, push chain into body creating a bend in the chain where the pin is to be removed. (grinding of link pin head (Burrs) is not necessary. Steady chainbreaker body with a Terra-x tyre lever or a 17 mm spanner etc.. Push out link pin turning inner bolt, this will be hardest at the start. Keep going until link pin drops out the rear of the chainbreaker body.

AS A PLATE PRESS FOR SPRING LINKS
Insert 10mm grub screw (supplied) into rear of chainbreaker body. Assemble link and loosely fit outer plate. Place chain in chainbreaker body and use large bolt (make sure push pin is retracted or removed altogether ) to clamp over link pin on one side of link. Turn in small grub screw in rear of chainbreaker body until it touches the back of the link pin, this will prevent the link pin being pushed out the rear plate when pressure is applied to the front plate. Tighten large bolt to squeeze on outer plate, alternate between the two link pins until the clip groove can be seen. Fit spring clip

AS A RIVETER
Proceed as for a spring link but when outer plate is on turn centre bolt (push pin bolt) until it touches the end of the link pin to be flared. Turn bolt to force end of push pin into the hole in the end of the link pin.

IMPORTANT: Do not over do this. It is like doing up a small bolt too much pressure and it will split the end of the link pin. A small enlargement is all that is needed you can hardly see the flaring. Recommend ½ to ¾ turn but it is more a question of feel. Use a short spanner.

BALANCING INSTRUCTIONS FOR WHEEL WEIGHTS

You will need to make up a stand to balance the wheels. It just has to have two parralel runners at the same height (two tressles or saw horses on level ground works). You will also need an axle, you can use the wheels axle if you can get the stands close enough together, if not you need a peice of round steel bar long enough to span the distance.

The bar doesnt need to be the same diameter as the wheels axle smaller is actually better, you just dont want it to flex. Put the bar through the wheel centre and place the wheel between the stands with the bar on each runner, keep the wheel paralel the stands and let it go. The wheel will settle with its off balance weight downwards.

The way to balance out this weight is to use the wheel weights to offset and create a see saw balance.

IF THE RIMLOCK AND VALVE ARE NEXT TO EACH OTHER
Use one heavy weight directly opposite the centre point between the rimlock and valve and have it as far towards the rim as possible, Use another heavy weight on the spoke next to but on the other side of the wheel and have this weight around the centre of the spoke to start with. Let the wheel settle and adjust until you have a non biased see saw. You may have to try moving one or both weights to different spokes either biased towards or away from the rimlock etc but this works for most cases.

IF THE RIMLOCK IS OPPOSITE VALVE OR TWO OPPOSING RIMLOCKS ARE USED
Use one large weight as a slider on the spoke opposite the rimlock or two small weights used as explained above.

Twin rimlocks will probably only need one small weight as a slider opposite the valve.

On bikes like new KTM you will need to use all the weight supplied ,in this case double up the two small weights as the outside weight on the Rear wheel.

Refit wheels and road test bike.

You will be amazed at the difference

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